I decided to disconnect the maf sensor to see if it would throw a proper code and it doesn't. He says grounding somewhere bad, probably needs new harness! He's done working on it -his decision. I also don't think that it would cause your DME to be fried, but you never know.
- Singapore BMW Owners Discussion ForumAnother clue that has lead me to believe the codes are bogus. I would need the whole part number to see if I could cross reference it for you. I like to start with the cheapest and easiest solutions first and then go up from there. Check the vehicle for fault codes, perform a full system scan using a BMW scan tool. It also depends on how many control modules are faulty. There are some exposed portions of wire on the MAF and on the IACV but, everything else is clean and dry. - Nick at Pelican Parts On my recent question, had a brain fade. - Nick at Pelican Parts My car runs in "limp mode" after I replaced blown fuel pump relay with new one. He has no idea where it's coming from but, with power on ground he can't get relays etc. One time the plastic hose on the pump failed blew a hole in it. It will do this to prevent excess fuel from entering the cylinder in the event of the misfire. Another thing, we are using an automatic engine harness but the car was manual before. A warning light being on usually indicates a fault in the system, and a stored fault code. Our workshop is equipped with the latest equipment to provide the highest possible accident repair standard We would love to perform all your BMW repair, service and maintenance needs.
BMW Repair: Service and Maintenance CostI have been having problems with it for a while now. The only fault code i get is "ignition", which does not mean much. I have replaced the idle control valve, plugs, mass air sensor, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. It's the top relay the one closest to the front of the vehicle. Checked fire on coils all good used a noid light to ck injectors firing. Check engine light is on but codes cleared with battery replacement. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. I would manually activate the relay and see if the vehicle runs. No cranking only clicking noises which continue after car turned off for a few seconds. It sounds mechanical like an actuator or something. If the engine runs, and lacks the fuel pump relay control, the dme may be faulty. Bought a code reader and pulled all cylinder misfire and camshaft. Many thanks to Wayne for mentioning this, as I never heard it anywhere else. Check all power and grounds to the DME before condemning it. After much research/consulting I changed crank angle sensor. I've even checked sensor wires to see if there is an internal break. If you can, you will have to check system pressure and shift patterns to determine if the trans is worn. Once you get that done, check power and ground to the DME and the crank signal, if all OK, the DME is likely faulty. o Changed out idle control valve: Purchased an aftermarket ICV, metal with an adjusting screw. If the relay is clicking, then the solenoid is working, but maybe not the contacts. Tested all fuses and relays located under DME all are good. I believe I have adequately checked the cars diagnostic wiring, and the plugs to the connector leads. Our dexterous panel beaters have many years of panel beating experience in small and large panel repairs. This is the line the DME monitors, if there is an issue, it will be here. Also check all the relays and the fuses in your fuse panel. The only fault code was on my knock sensors, so at first I thought my knock sensors were bad. However, my car does have the factory alarm with immobilization. It has a new idle air valve and I have double checked that the mass air flow sensor is functioning. Most unnecessary wiring has been removed very carefully, and was working perfectly for a year until we started to do additional work, we removed the door wiring to the harness at the speaker holes, and also removed the window wiring, since the car has Lexan side window and rear window. Parts I replaced came from Pelican so i know there good. Would you recommend swaping the two DME's in order to check. in both cold and hot situation I already did a gearbox swap and a transmission ECU swap but nothing improved. Morrison's auto repair. Also check the ignition boot on the coils make sure they are not burnt. Hard to check that switch though.It works with a magnet moving across chips, could not test for no. I have fuel, can smell gas after cranking and I have no spark on any cyl. This is pretty difficult to do on this engine, however. When I pulled over I tried to start it with no luck.
BMW E30/E36 DME Motronic ECU Swap | 3-Series (1983-1999.It evidently is a used unit because it has writing on it indicating it was pulled from another car. I just bought and installed a new Crank Position Sensor. i would check the control circuit and voltage drop on the control circuit to the DME. If it does, check the componenets that can create a rich exhaust. I will try to check the connection on the egs from the ecu. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I pulled the DME out and everything looks good, no electrical cuts or breaks in lines, no water damage or corrosion, there is no smell of burn or any damage at all to the DME. Sorry, I'm not familiar enough with the electrics to give you wire-by-wire advice on this. It's a blue and white lead that looks like routes back to one of the relays not the relay I originally thought!. I replaced the temperature sensor for the ECU, the temperature sensor on the dashboard, the crankshaft sensor, the speed sensor, the idle speed regulator, the air flow sensor. What scares me is that the engine cuts out when this happens while I'm driving.
Bodywork Plus - Quality vehicle bodywork & spraying.If they are good and the DME has no fault codes, it may be faulty. The new DME will have to be coded and programmed with the EWS.
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